Wave Crest Distributions: Observations and Second-Order Theory
By G. Forristall. 2000
466 citations recorded by the source corpus.
Subfields: Atmospheric Science, Earth-Surface Processes, Oceanography
View Paper: https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/134bd1739b623abd621facd57d2982c10c227bc7
How researchers see this paper
The researchers whose trusted networks rank it highest, strongest advocate first. Every researcher gets a different order.
In Atmospheric Science
In Earth-Surface Processes
In Oceanography
- Francesco Fedele
- M. Onorato
- Karsten Trulsen
- N. Mori
- M. Tayfun
- Peter A. E. M. Janssen
- Luigi Cavaleri
- A. Osborne
Citations in the corpus
- On nonlinear wave groups and crest statistics (2009, methodology): “…directional simulations of relatively broadband waves by way of the modified nonlinear Schödinger (NLS) equation (Dysthe 1979; Socquet-Juglard et al. 2005; Gramstad & Trulsen 2007) as well as by the statistics derived from oceanic measurements (Forristall 2000, 2007; Tayfun & Fedele 2007b, 2008).”
- Extreme waves, modulational instability and second order theory: wave flume experiments on irregular waves (2006, unknown): “According to the second order theory, time series of the surface elevation for infinite-crested waves, in infinite water depth, can be built up in the following way (see [40]):”
- Statistical properties of mechanically generated surface gravity waves: a laboratory experiment in a three-dimensional wave basin (2009, methodology): “An interesting parametrization of the probability density function for wave crests, which fits well the output of the simulations of the second-order model and many experimental data, has been given by Forristall (2000).”
- Evolution of weakly nonlinear random directional waves: laboratory experiments and numerical simulations (2010, background): “Despite the fact that second-order models agree with field measurements reasonably well (see e.g. Forristall 2000; Toffoli et al. 2007), deviations from second-order based statistical distributions are still possible (Bitner-Gregersen & Magnusson 2004; Petrova, Cherneva & Guedes Soares 2006).”
- On Kurtosis and Occurrence Probability of Freak Waves (2006, background): “Forristall (2000) investigated the influence of second-order nonlinearity on wave crest distributions.”